The Perfect Loaf
Hamburger made with sourdough milk bread hamburger buns

Fluffy Milk Bread Hamburger Buns

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Crafting the perfect hamburger bun is hard. You’re not looking for the utmost softness because the bun will erode beneath a stack of meat, veggies, and condiments. Yet you don’t want to eat a burger supported by two rigid crackers, either. Instead, you want a soft and squishy bun but still sturdy in all the right places. 

And that’s the challenge: Make a bun that’s almost a paradox. It must combine the best of two opposed qualities, outperforming the Platonic ideal of both. It’s like a mosaic of traits that’s nonsensical until you view (or, in this case, eat) it whole.

…you want a bun that’s soft and squishy but still sturdy in all the right places.

These milk bread hamburger buns take inspiration from Japanese milk bread (shokupan): They have a bit of sugar, lots of milk, and use the tangzhong technique to amplify the softness and shelf life.

Further, Japanese milk bread makes for incredible toast, and these buns act very similarly once they’re grilled—the superficial layer exposed to the grill’s heat crisps up into a sturdy, anti-soggy platform for anything from hamburgers to sloppy joes to fish sandwiches.

Interior crumb of the fluffy sourdough milk bread buns
These milk bread hamburger buns have a tight and very fluffy—yet sturdy—interior. I especially love the semi-crackled surface on these buns.

Milk Bread Hamburger Buns versus Soft Potato Buns

I often declare that my Soft Sourdough Potato Buns are my best hamburger buns. And I have to say, they are downright incredible. But these milk bread hamburger buns hit a little differently. I labeled them “fluffy” because they’re like little clouds buoying your hamburger to the next level. Where the potato buns are soft, substantial, and a bit dense, these are soft, light, and plush.

Honestly, both buns are lovely and will serve you well at the next cookout. But these milk bread buns are like the lighter cousin to the potato buns.

What is the Difference Between a Sweet Liquid Levain and a Sweet Stiff Levain?

A sweet preferment, or a sourdough starter or levain with a small amount of sugar added, emphasizes yeast activity (as opposed to bacterial activity) for less sourness and more volume in the final product.  Both sweet liquid and sweet stiff levain will produce the desired result.

Sourdough sweet levain for hamburger buns
The liquid sweet levain for these milk bread hamburger buns is ready after 12 hours of fermentation. The levain needs to be very ripe, and it’s okay if it’s fallen a little in the jar.

Technically, reducing the hydration of the sweet levain to make it stiffer can lead to an even more mild-tasting result (reducing bacterial activity further). But, I find mixing the levain very laborious. After testing both sweet levain types, I’ve found that a sweet liquid version is just as effective in emphasizing yeast activity for maximum volume and reduced sourness while still being incredibly easy to mix with a spatula. 

This recipe for milk bread hamburger buns uses a sweet levain to reduce sourness in the final bun—but not entirely (though, gosh, it’s close). Any slight perceptible sourness only brings additional flavor to the final buns, IMO—though I don’t detect any.

For more information on the why and how behind making a sweet levain, see the preferment section in my cookbook.

Flour Selection

As with my Japanese milk bread loaf, I use 100% high-protein white bread flour for these milk bread hamburger buns to achieve maximum volume and minimal sourness. The flour’s high gluten content helps support the fat (milk and butter) in the dough. Additionally, because this bread flour is heavily sifted (with a low ash content), the reduced amount of bran and germ results in less dough acidification during fermentation.

I used King Arthur Artisan Bread flour, but any high-protein white flour will work well with this recipe.

Sourdough milk bread hamburger buns baking schedule

Baking Schedule

These sourdough milk bread hamburger buns are made over the course of a single day (aside from the overnight levain). This preferred fermentation schedule ensures the mildest possible flavor profile. It also makes for a convenient schedule: Mix the sweet levain the night before, mix the dough in the morning, and have hamburger buns ready for the evening.

If you’re looking to cold-proof (retard) these buns so you can bake them early in the day for lunch, that will undoubtedly work (see the FAQ at the end of this post). However, I prefer to follow the baking schedule as outlined and bake them the day the dough is mixed. Then, let the buns cool overnight and use them the next day (they get even better with proper cooling).

Milk Bread Hamburger Buns Recipe

For tips on calculating baker’s percentages or modifying this formula (like making only 5 buns instead of 10), see my guide to using baker’s percentages.

Vitals

Total dough weight1,450 grams
Prefermented flour13.5%
Levain in final dough40.6%
Hydration29.0% (does not include the milk)
Yield10 x 135g buns

Total Formula

Desired dough temperature: 76°F (24°C) (see my post on the importance of dough temperature).

WeightIngredientBaker’s Percentage
617gHigh-protein white bread flour (King Arthur Bread Flour, 12.7% protein)90.0%
69gTangzhong: High-protein white bread flour10.0%
274gTangzhong: Whole milk40.0%
69gWhole milk10.0%
123gUnsalted butter18.0%
48gSuperfine white sugar (or granulated sugar)7.0%
199gWater29.0%
14gFine sea salt2.1%
37gRipe sourdough starter, 100% hydration5.4%

Additional Ingredients

1 egg and 1 tablespoon whole milk for the egg wash (optional)

Raw sesame seeds, for topping (optional)

Hamburger made with sourdough milk bread hamburger buns.
One of my favorite things about these buns is how wonderfully they color and crisp on the grill—see the grill marks on the bottom bun, especially the edge.

Milk Bread Hamburger Buns Method

1. Prepare the levain – 9:00 p.m. (the night before mixing)

WeightIngredientBaker’s Percentage
93gHigh-protein white bread flour100.0%
28gSuperfine white sugar30.0%
83gWater90.0%
37gRipe sourdough starter, 100% hydration40.0%

Mix the ingredients in the chart above in your favorite jar and leave them covered at a warm temperature, 74-76°F (23-24°C), to ripen for 12 to 14 hours. This is a sweet liquid levain and it will expand in volume significantly. Be sure to use a tall jar so it doesn’t overflow.

At this time, also take out the butter from the fridge, cut it into 1/2-inch pats, and let it warm to room temp on a plate.

2. Prepare the tangzhong – 9:00 a.m. (the day of mixing)

In a medium saucepan over medium-low heat, combine the 69 grams high-protein white bread flour and 274 grams whole milk. Cook, whisking continuously, until the mixture thickens and becomes a paste (it should look like mashed potatoes), 5 to 7 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and spread the tangzhong on a small plate to expedite cooling. Set aside.

 3. Mix – 9:30 a.m.

WeightIngredient
524gHigh-protein white bread flour
342g (All*)Tangzhong (from Step 2)
69gWhole milk
123gUnsalted butter
20gSuperfine white sugar
116gWater
14gFine sea salt
240g (All)Ripe levain (from Step 1)

*Note that it may be difficult to scrape every bit of the tangzhong out of the pan, and plus or minus 5g won’t make a huge difference in the end.

Like Japanese milk bread, these milk bread hamburger buns require intensive kneading to ensure the dough is smooth and elastic and for the best structure and volume.

I used my KitchenAid stand mixer or a spiral mixer to efficiently mix and knead the dough. However, it’s also possible to mix this dough by hand using the slap and fold kneading technique. Just be sure to hold back the butter until the dough is significantly strengthened, smooth, and elastic.

To the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook attachment, add the flour, tangzhong, milk, sugar, water, salt, and ripe levain. Mix on low speed (STIR on a KitchenAid) for 1 to 2 minutes until the ingredients come together, no dry bits remain, and the sides of the bowl are clean. This is not an overly wet, slack, or sloppy dough, it should be cohesive. If the dough is very dry, conservatively add a splash of water as needed to moisten. Next, mix on medium speed (2 on a KitchenAid) for 7 minutes until the dough smooths and begins to cling slightly to the hook (it will still be sticky and shaggy; see the image below).

Mixing milk bread hamburger bun dough after the first phase
The milk bread hamburger bun dough after the first 7 minutes of mixing. Note how shaggy the dough is yet it’s cohesive and slightly clinging to the dough hook.

Let the dough rest in the bowl for 5 minutes.

Return the mixer to medium speed and mix for 3 to 4 minutes until the dough gains more strength and clings again to the dough hook. The dough will still be sticky to the touch and might be attached to the bottom of the bowl, but the sides will be clean (see image below).

Mixing the milk bread hamburger bun dough, just before adding butter
After the second phase of mixing, the dough will be strong and clinging to the dough hook. Next, we will add the butter.

Reduce the mixer speed to low speed and add the room-temperature butter, one pat at a time, waiting to add each until the previous is absorbed. Use a spatula to scrape the sides of the bowl as needed. Once all the butter is added, about 4 to 6 minutes later, the dough will be in a cohesive ball in the mixing bowl with the sides mostly clean.

Milk bread hamburger bun dough at the end of mixing
At the end of mixing the dough will be softer and slightly sticky to the touch, but cohesive.

At this point, the dough will be very soft to the touch and a bit sticky. Transfer the dough to a bulk fermentation container and cover.

4. Bulk Fermentation – 10:00 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. (3 1/2 hours)

At a warm room temperature, 74-76°F (23-24°C), bulk fermentation should take about 3 ½ hours with no sets of stretches and folds (the dough is sufficiently strengthened during mixing).

Let the dough rest, covered, for the duration of bulk fermentation.

5. Divide and Shape – 1:30 p.m.

Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. Lightly flour your work surface, and using a bowl scraper, gently scoop the dough out to the floured area. Lightly flour the top of the dough and divide it into 10 (135-gram) portions. You might have a small bit of scrap dough left over.

Using floured hands and a bench scraper, shape the portions into tight balls. I like to use the bench scraper at a high angle to the work surface to help shape the dough. A high angle tightens the dough more assertively.

6. Proof – 2:00 p.m. to 4:30 p.m.

Cover the baking sheets with reusable plastic or these life-changing snap-on baking sheet covers (see image above) and let the dough proof for 2 ½ hours.

7. Bake – 4:30 p.m. (preheat oven at 4:00 p.m.)

After 2 ½ hours the dough pieces should have puffed up, and feel very light and airy when poked.

Fully proofed milk bread hamburger buns.
After about 2 1/2 hours the hamburger buns should be very light to the touch and fully proofed.

If you’re used to using the poke test to determine when your bread dough is ready for baking, this dough will feel different. It will feel more like poking a marshmallow or balloon that’s not fully inflated. If the dough feels dense or tight, give it another 15 minutes to proof, then check again.

Below, you can see how jiggly the dough is and the texture when I poke it to determine how well proofed it is.

30 minutes before you want to bake, preheat your oven to 450°F (232°C), with racks in the upper and lower third.

If making the egg wash, whisk together 1 whole egg and 1 tablespoon of whole milk in a small bowl until no lumps remain and the mixture is frothy.

Uncover the baking sheets and, using a pastry brush, brush on an even, thin layer of the egg wash. Liberally sprinkle on sesame seeds if using.

Place the baking sheets in the oven and bake for 15 minutes. Rotate the pans back to front and top to bottom, then reduce the oven temperature to 425°F (220°C). Bake for 5 to 10 minutes until well-colored.

Fully baked sourdough milk bread hamburger buns.
Beautifully shiny, fluffy, and ready to eat.

Remove the baking sheets to a heat-safe surface and cool for 5 minutes. Then, transfer the buns to a cooling rack and let them cool completely before slicing, about 30 minutes.

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Hamburger made with sourdough milk bread hamburger buns

Fluffy Milk Bread Hamburger Buns

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  • Author: Maurizio Leo
  • Prep Time: 19 hours 30 minutes
  • Cook Time: 30 minutes
  • Total Time: 20 hours
  • Yield: 10 buns
  • Category: Lunch, Dinner, Main Course
  • Method: Fermentation
  • Cuisine: American
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Description

These sourdough (naturally leavened) milk bread hamburger buns are soft and fluffy yet sturdy enough to hold your burger and all the desired toppings.


Ingredients

Levain

  • 93g high-protein white bread flour
  • 28g superfine white sugar
  • 83g water
  • 37g ripe sourdough starter

Tangzhong

  • 69g high-protein white bread flour
  • 274g whole milk

Main Dough

  • 524g high-protein white bread flour
  • 342g (all) tangzhong
  • 69g whole milk
  • 123g unsalted butter
  • 20g superfine white sugar
  • 116g water
  • 14g fine sea salt
  • 240g (all) ripe levain

Topping

  • 1 egg and 1 tablespoon whole milk for egg wash (optional)
  • Raw sesame seeds (optional)

Instructions

  1. Prepare the levain – 9:00 p.m. (the night before mixing)
    Mix the ingredients in the chart above in a tall jar, covered at a warm temperature, 74-76°F (23-24°C), to ripen for 12 to 14 hours. This levain will expand in volume significantly. Be sure to use a tall jar so it doesn’t overflow. At this time, also take out the butter from the fridge, cut it into 1/2-inch pats, and let it warm to room temp on a plate.
  2. Prepare the tangzhong – 9:10 a.m. (the day of mixing)
    In a medium saucepan over medium-low heat, combine the tangzhong ingredients. Cook, whisking continuously, until the mixture thickens and becomes a paste (it should look like mashed potatoes), 5 to 7 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and spread the tangzhong on a small plate to cool. Set aside.
  3. Mix – 9:30 a.m.
    To the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, add flour, tangzhong, milk, sugar, water, salt, and ripe levain. Mix on low speed (STIR on KitchenAid) for 1-2 minutes until combined, with no dry bits remaining. If the dough is too dry, add a splash of water. Mix on medium speed (2 on KitchenAid) for 7 minutes until smooth. Let rest for 5 minutes. Mix again on medium speed for 3-4 minutes until the dough gains strength and clings to the hook. Reduce speed to low and add the room-temperature butter, one pat at a time, scraping the bowl as needed. After 4-6 minutes, the dough will form a cohesive ball with clean sides. Transfer the dough to a bulk fermentation container and cover.
  4. Bulk Fermentation – 10:00 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. (3 1/2 hours)
    At a warm room temperature, 74-76°F (23-24°C), bulk fermentation should take about 3 ½ hours with no sets of stretches and folds (the dough is sufficiently strengthened during mixing). Let the dough rest, covered, for the duration of bulk fermentation.
  5. Divide and Shape – 1:30 p.m.
    Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. Lightly flour your work surface, and using a bowl scraper, gently scoop the dough out to the floured area. Lightly flour the top of the dough and divide it into 10 (135-gram) portions. You might have a small bit of scrap dough left over. Using floured hands and a bench scraper, shape the portions into tight balls.
  6. Proof – 2:00 p.m. to 4:30 p.m.
    Cover the baking sheets with reusable plastic or snap-on baking sheet covers and let the dough proof for 2 ½ hours. (See the video up in this post for what the dough looks like when fully proofed.)
  7. Bake – 4:30 p.m. (preheat oven at 4:00 p.m.)
    30 minutes before baking, preheat oven to 450°F (232°C) with racks in the upper and lower thirds. For the egg wash, whisk 1 egg and 1 tablespoon of milk until frothy. Uncover baking sheets and brush with egg wash. Sprinkle sesame seeds if desired. Bake for 15 minutes. Rotate pans, reduce temperature to 425°F (220°C), and bake for another 5-10 minutes until well-colored. Remove the baking sheets to a heat-safe surface and cool for 5 minutes. Then, transfer the buns to a cooling rack and let them cool completely before slicing, about 30 minutes.

Notes

To make this recipe vegan, substitute the whole dairy milk for full-fat nut or oat milk and use a butter substitute (such as Earth Balance Vegan Butter).

If you don’t have superfine white sugar (caster sugar), use your finest white sugar.

Milk Bread Hamburger Buns FAQs

Can I prepare the tangzhong ahead of time?

Yes, you can prepare the tangzhong the night before mixing. After cooking the flour and milk, let it completely cool on the counter, transfer to a covered container, and place it in the refrigerator.

Can I make these milk bread hamburger buns vegan?

Yes, substitute the dairy milk, both in the tangzhong and main dough, for any whole-fat nut or soy milk. In place of the butter, use a vegan butter alternative such as Earth Balance. Omit the egg wash completely, and instead, brush the tops of the dough with more nondairy milk before baking.

Can I reduce the amount of sugar in these hamburger buns?

I would not reduce the sugar in the sweet levain because the specified amount is needed to ensure reduced bacterial activity. However, feel free to reduce the sugar in the main dough, though it’s there primarily to ensure the final buns are soft and have good keeping quality.

Can I refrigerate the milk bread hamburger bun dough overnight?

Yes. After shaping the dough into balls and placing them on the baking sheets, cover the dough, let it proof for 30 minutes on the counter, then place the pans in the refrigerator. The next day, take the trays out to finish proofing on the counter for 1 to 3 hours, until very puffy as directed in Step 7.

Can I use this bun for anything other than a hamburger?

These sourdough milk bread buns would be fantastic for egg sandwiches, tuna or egg salad sandwiches, or sloppy joes.

My milk bread hamburger buns had large bubbles form on top, what happened?

This is a telltale sign the dough is overproofed. Next time, reduce the proofing time by 15 to 30 minutes. The dough should feel very light when poked, but not excessively gassed up or delicate. You might also see partially collapsed areas when the dough is overproofed.


What’s Next?

Since you’re likely making these milk bread hamburger buns during the summer, why not make an easy sourdough starter discard pie or galette to house all that excellent summer produce and complete your cookout?

Buon appetito!

Picture of Maurizio Leo
Maurizio Leo
Maurizio Leo is the creator of the independent sourdough baking website The Perfect Loaf. His cookbook, The Perfect Loaf — The Craft and Science of Sourdough Breads, Sweets, and More, is a James Beard Award-winner and a New York Times bestseller. He lives in Albuquerque, NM, with his wife and two sons, where he's been baking sourdough for over a decade. He's been labeled "Bob Ross but for bread."

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79 Comments

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  1. Hi from San Francisco!
    Thank you so much for this recipe!! I’ve made it a few times now and it’s always a hit with the family. One thing I have always had trouble with is the color of the buns. Mine always looks burnt. Can the temperature be adjusted to 425 degrees Fahrenheit from the beginning then reduce to 400 after 15 minutes? https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/9cf6fbc8a42e983079f08e35ac4f609ec1195688662abe68775302f41b5c8b36.jpg

  2. https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/41b66fbcaaf5d90fe8f8ebab028bdca54ba3e766fca9f0c2c9ef4054e8089591.jpg Hi, I’ve tried making these several times and I can’t get it right. The levain doesn’t seem to be expanding so much and the end result is (tasty for sure) tight and heavy no matter what I do. I’m wondering if our milk is the issue. We use unpasteurised unhomogenised jersey cow milk. (Pictures for reference with green lines at the cream level). The cream level varies but is significantly higher than standard milk. Do I need to source alternative milk for making these work? Or where could I be going wrong…?

    1. If the levain isn't expanding, then I would certainly start there with troubleshooting—it's the basis for all things fermentation in these rolls! The milk may have an affect, I'm not sure, I've never used milk like this. You could eliminate the guessing by trying some milk from the store (just to test so you know for the future!). But, I would focus on keeping that levain really warm overnight—you should see lots of expansion and fermentation there!

  3. Hello from Scotland
    I prefer to dough in the fridge overnight and shape in the morning How long would you do ambient bulk fermentation before putting in the fridge

    Love your potato buns

    Thanks
    Liz

  4. I have 11.5 cm (45.27 in) burger bun tins and these buns came out smaller than a standard burger bun (even though I weighed each at 135g). Are yours smaller too or did mine not rise enough?

  5. Hi, I have both sourdough liquid with 100%hydration daily fed and lievito madre with 45% that I used for panetonne and was staying in the fridge for a week now. Which one should I use?

  6. https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/d0d01f1ec81a487c125df0d7201863261591a6059f13463a45537b6a57efd100.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/dc6c123a1bae9d78c3a1b3a472465761d618f2f1d40b440ebbd1806ad69fdd33.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/e8d170a6606f99b3c8d6d9efbec41ab566a3164776e9dffa9b39d0aabf646715.jpg Made these yesterday for a group of friends, they were a huge hit, everyone loved them! Even kids. I tripled the batch and made them 150 grams each and ended up with 28 buns. I also used honey for the levain and the main dough, they turned out amazing!

    1. I see this sometimes with LPs too, they're almost too good. A silicone pan liner might help, otherwise, it's going to be a lower baking temp. You could start out at a high temp, then lower it midway through. That might do it!

  7. In "3. Mix" by mistake your total for the levain and the tangzhong are 1g less for each, making the total of the recipe 1,448g (instead of 1,450).
    in the other steps the numbers are right.

  8. Hi Maurizio,
    It mentions Artisan Bread Flour. I don't seem to have any sold nearby. Is this different than KA Bread Flour? They packages look different. Sorry, if it's a silly question, I'm completely new to baking from scratch. Only cake box baking experience. 😀

    1. You could use some spelt, yes. I'd start at 20% to total flour weight. I would be hesitant to use 100% spelt, though. The dough might be very hard to handle and not rise quite as high.

  9. Can I make these a day or two ahead of time, cool them after baking and seal tightly at room temp? Too many things to do the day of the bbq!

  10. I have taken a couple classes locally at a farm. She does only a stiff starter I keep in the fridge and mix up a levain as needed. Can I use it for this recipe (it makes @ 260g)?

    1. I would highly recommend making the levain for this recipe as stated (with sugar!). You can use her starter, just use that to make the levain in the recipe and you're good to go!

      1. It’s a concentrated stiff starter so it would be a lot. Would I make my normal levain from it and use it to make your levain?

  11. Best buns I’ve made. Can you back this in a loaf pan? If so what would the temp and time be?

  12. I'm a beginner in the sourdough world and have only made a handful of recipes. I made several mistakes while attempting this recipe but despite all the errors, the hamburger buns turned out amazing! It is a forgiving recipe! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and all your recipes. I've learned so much from you!

  13. I made these yesterday for pulled pork sandwiches. I wanted to bake them and have them ready by noon, so I did everything up to and including shaping on Saturday and put the shaped buns in the fridge overnight. Took them out at 8:00AM and they were ready to bake by 11:00. My only variation was that I needed 12, so I made them slightly smaller. They were a huge hit! They were soft and absorbed the BBQ sauce, but didn't fall apart as we ate. Great recipe, I'll be making these again for sure!

  14. When you go to print out the recipe, the butter is omitted – still. Also "uncover the baking sheets" when putting the butter and egg wash on top- those baking sheets are not oven-safe, per the listing – so what did you have them covered with while baking?

  15. Thanks for correcting the recipe and inserting the butter. Perhaps you can also add what condition the butter should be in?

    1. The butter needs to be soft and at room temp, in order to be incorporated. I luckily had some butter out for another recipe and used that.

  16. Oi Maurizio… faltou incluir a manteiga na versão para impressão da receita? Parabéns pelo ótimo trabalho.

  17. I have 2 questions. First, I don't have a stand mixer so how long to I knead by hand?
    Second, what signs show the dough is correctly fermented? Same as with bread?

    1. It's hard to say on the kneading, it depends on what technique you're using and your effectiveness. I would say around 10 to 15 minutes. The dough should feel pretty elastic and smooth before adding the butter.

      Yes, the dough will be puffy and light when properly proofed. Similar to freeform bread but this will be lighter and more "airy."

  18. Can you use this MILK Bread Hamburger Bun dough to bake a loaf of bread in a normal rectangle aluminum bread pan ?

  19. I’d like to use flours from Cairnspring Mills, which is local to me. You mention your flour choice is heavily sifted. As Cairnspring flours have more bran and germ, will they work here? If so which is best.

      1. when you print the recipe, butter is still omitted from the print out – I just tried it twice. fyi

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